Dec 3 2008
For the lover of Navajo rugs and weavings, a day trip from Gallup through the Navajo Reservation to Toadlena Trading Post and Two Grey Hills Trading Post is a must-do. Not only will you find yourself at the center of the Two Grey Hills weaving community, you will have the opportunity to learn about the beautiful rugs and see examples that exist nowhere else. And, if you are lucky, you may meet one of the talented Navajo weavers.How to Get to the Land of Two Grey Hills Weavings
From Gallup drive, 59.3 miles north on Hwy 491 (old US 666) to Navajo highway 19, at the Shell gas station, turn left. This is actually the second exit to Toadlena but it is a more direct route. Look carefully. As you turn left, you will be able to see signs to both Toadlena and Two Grey Hills Trading Posts. As you drive down the road through the reservation, you will see a sign pointing left for Two Grey Hills Trading Post. For reasons I will explain, go to Toadlena first and visit Two Grey Hills on your return down the same road.
Hours and Phone Numbers
Toadlena Trading Post
Hours: Monday thru Saturday, 9am-6pm. Sunday 10am – 5pm. Hours may vary in the winter. It’s best to call before going out.
Phone: 505.789.3267
Two Grey Hills Trading Post
Hours: Monday thru Saturday, 8:30 am-5:30 pm or by appointment. “If the store is closed, rug buyers should drive to the rear and honk persistently,” says the owner.
Phone: (505) 789-3270
Visiting Close to the Source – The Best Way to Learn
When I was in Gallup for the Red Rocks Balloon Festival, a local woman urged me to go to Toadlena Trading Post. She said that not many people get out there and that it would be well worth the drive. Well, it was a cold and icy December day so I vowed to go to Toadlena on my next trip to Gallup.
Toadlena – A Gem at the Base of the Chuska Mountains
Once I researched the Trading Post, I realized that it wasn’t an ordinary Trading Post. It was a combination traditional Trading Post with shelves stocked with canned goods, a pot-bellied stove and also home of a fantastic weaving museum.
In 1997, Mark Winter leased the old stone trading post. He had a vision of learning more about the area’s weaving families and supporting traditional weaving activities. He had traded in Navajo rugs and blankets for years, but never had the close contact with the weavers that he could have by moving to this remote area near Newcomb.
Mark has encouraged high quality weaving. He developed a collection of weavings from most all the mid-20th century weavers in the area. This collection is open to the public. He also purchases first weavings from young weavers to encourage them to learn from their mothers and grandmothers. The Toadlena Trading Post supports 125 weavers living within a 15 mile radius. It has become a social center for the area.
Toadlena Weaving Museum and Rug Room
The weaving museum that Mark Winter has put together consists of Navajo rugs literally covering the walls of the Trading Post’s huge back room. There are special 9/11 inspired rugs, rugs from all the local weaving families, arranged by decade and last but not least, some inspiring first rugs from young weavers. For the lover of the Two Grey Hills rugs, this little museum is certainly worth the trip.
Once you learn more about Two Grey Hills rugs, you should visit Toadlena’s rug room, and make a visit to the Two Grey Hills Historic Trading Post down the road. When I visited the Toadlena rug room, I ran into a woman from New York who was searching for “that special rug.” She concentrated on the rugs of the young weavers and found a great little rug to add to her collection. I admired some larger rugs, tightly woven and very soft. A relative of the weaver was working that day at the Trading Post.
One of the special things about visiting Toadlena is the opportunity to take a moment and reflect on the beauty of the area. The trading post is situated on a rise overlooking the valley. This beautiful scene is framed in the large window of the rug room and can be enjoyed from the front porch. In fact, some wise person put a bench there!
