Dec 3 2008
Down the Road to Two Grey HillsI have suggested going to Toadlena first, just because the museum is a great place to begin your visit to Navajo weaving country. Once you have enjoyed Toadena, head back down the road and take the cut-off to the right when you see the Two Grey Hills Trading Post sign. You will pass grassy pastures, some with herds of horses, and see a low building with a gas pump ahead of you. Drive up the dirt road and you will be there. There isn’t much of a sign until you get to the front of the building.
Established in 1897
Two Grey Hills Trading Post is over 100 years old and still operates much like it did decades ago. Just like in 1897 when the trading post was founded, Navajo people bring their goods to the trading post and leave with other necessities, whether it be a cradle board or canned fruit.
Les Wilson owns the trading post. His wife raises sheep for wool out in back. I asked Les, as many do, where the Two Grey Hills were. I had seen green hills and brown hills, but no grey hills. He answered that it could be the low mesa the trading post was on. But I remain uncertain. Les told me that there are very few trading posts remaining that do business like they did in the heyday of trading posts. No money changed hands then. All goods were traded.
Listed on the New Mexico State Register of Cultural Properties
Now listed on the New Mexico State Register of Cultural Properties, the Two Grey Hills Trading Post attracts some adventurous visitors and collectors among the flow of Navajo customers. When I was there, I noticed that it was a cross between a convenience store and old general store of yesteryear. I asked to see the “rug room” and was invited back to have a look at the Two Grey Hills rugs. I found an amazingly intricate (and expensive) rug and was admiring it. The weaver, Shirley, just happened to be working there that day. She agreed to pose with this beautiful rug in front of the trading post. She exclaimed that she was a “fast weaver.” I also was shown a simple weaving. It belonged to an elder who could no longer see well. Les had purchased her weaving nonetheless. That is the way things work at Two Grey Hills.
That day I did buy a small weaving, a Two Grey Hills weaving woven with natural color yarn in a traditional pattern. It meant so much more to me to have a rug from the source. I was told that the weaver, Stacy Begay, was 18 years old and was headed to college. My hope is that she will continue her weaving as she studies and, eventually, pass the skill down to her children.
After visiting the Churro sheep in back of the trading post, I said farewell and headed back down the road. It was a beautiful drive in the middle of summer. It was green, the horses were galloping along the fence and I felt like I had traveled years into the past. Yes, there are places in New Mexico where time just about stands still.
When You Go
- I suggest not driving a low clearance vehicle like a small compact car. There are ruts on the dirt roads which lead into the trading posts. After a rain, I can envision some major mud on those driveways. I drove a Jeep Liberty. It was just perfect for the outing.
- Take a lunch and water. It's a ways out there and you might enjoy a picnic by the side of the road. You will be driving on the reservation, so not straying far off the road would be a good idea. Both trading posts have ice cold soft drinks available.
- If you are considering buying a Two Grey Hills rug, check at both rug rooms before making your decision. I highly encourage you to buy as close to the source as possible. It benefits the weavers and supports this vital art.
- Call ahead and check for opening hours. This is especially important during winter or during holidays.
- Remember, these are operating trading posts. They are not tourist shops
Two Grey Hills Trading Post Website
Toadlena Trading Post Website
About Gallup Trading Posts
